Chameleon in Marylebone: Just a little oasis in the course of London


Chameleon in Marylebone: A little oasis in the middle of London | Restaurant review

May 18, 2021

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Shot by Cristiana Ferrauti

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The hotel is located in One Marylebone in a Georgian-era church. The first thing you notice about Chameleon is the monumental setting and lavish setting. We sat in God’s garden, a beautiful courtyard that is completely covered with toasted radiators and blankets. This little oasis was far from the busy main street on the other side of the building and we almost forgot where we were when we entered. Also, live music was played throughout the evening, like stepping into an alternate reality.

The menu consists of Tel Aviv-style dishes and offers a variety of breads, dips, small dishes and larger plates. The drinks menu offers a tempting cocktail selection, and after much deliberation, we opted for the refreshing God’s Garden Fizz, made from Plymouth Gin, Confit Rhubarb, Cucumber, Elderflower and Prosecco, and the Date Old Fashioned, made with Date Maker’s Mark and bitter.

We started with the Kubbana Brioche bread with two dips – the zhug made from green chili, crème fraîche and crushed tomatoes and the sweet harissa with white tahini, shaved tomatoes and za’atar. The bread was really a thing of beauty and was wonderfully buttery, light and airy: perfectly baked. It was the ideal base for the zhug dip, which was grumpy and salty with just the right amount of seasoning. The harissa dip was sweet as opposed to a deep and smoky taste that was incredibly well-received.

As a starter we had the eggplant carpaccio with raw tahini, crispy onions, goat cheese and pistachios. This was perhaps my favorite dish of the night when the finely sliced ​​eggplant melted in my mouth and brought to life with satisfying sweet and nutty flavors.

We also tried the yellowtail sashimi with pickled beets, black quinoa, and cashew yogurt. This was full of fresh and tangy flavors with a powerful citrus kick that cut right through the dish.

The Spanish octopus with black hummus, pickled red cabbage, harissa baby carrots and an Urfa broth was our first choice for main dishes. The presentation was dramatic and there were many contrasting flavors and textures, however the octopus was a bit overcooked and left a slightly bitter aftertaste.

Our meal continued with charred poussin skewers; This dish, served with sweetbreads, freekeh, and spinach yogurt relish, was kept simple and the chicken was beautifully cooked. While sweetbreads may not be to everyone’s taste, these were flavorful and had a rich, creamy texture that played well with the rest of the components.

For dessert we had the yuzu and bergamot quark with goat yogurt, ginger, berries and sumac meringue. This was another winner for me – it was interesting, lively, and mastered the balancing act of being just the right amount of sweet and tart.

Last but not least, the Manjari Chocolate Cremeux with cocoa sprinkles, sesame seeds and cardamom coffee ice cream. This was rich and silky and had an intense cocoa flavor that went perfectly with the subtle tones of the ice cream.

The setting and ambience of Chameleon is charming to say the least, and there are some really standout dishes that are not to be missed. Guests looking for a casual, relaxed meal with great views should be sure to book a seat sooner rather than later.

Alex Julie Woods
Photos: Cristiana Ferrauti

To reserve a table at Chameleon, 1 Marylebone Road London NW1 4AQ, call 020 7186 2444 or visit the website here.